Why Is Black Hair Political?
Black hair has always been a political aspect of Blackness in the United States and there are multiple facets to the politicization of Black hair:
Originally, Black hair was merely an indictor of African ancestry; therefore, it was also an indicator of Black identity. The concept of Black identity in itself is political because of the historical and contemporary context in which Black people existed and exist in American society. Blackness, and therefore Black hair, has long been associated with inferiority because the notion of “Black inferiority” was used as a justification for slavery and its aftermath (Black codes, Jim Crow, etc.). During slavery, Black hair was politicized. Many field slaves were made to cover their hair while house slaves were made to wear wigs made from white people’s hair. After slavery, Blacks had societal pressure to straighten their hair in order to assimilate into white America.
Later, during the Natural Hair Movement of the 60s and 70s, natural hair was politicized again because of the entanglement of the movement with the Black Power Movement. People wore afros for political reasons: as a statement of acceptance of Black identity and rejection of assimilation into white America. In addition to this, when Black liberation leaders such as Angela Davis—activist, scholar, author, educator--wore natural hair, it became associated with repression and militancy in the eyes of whites that wanted to dismantle the Panthers and combat the Black Power Movement. Since then, natural hair and afros are still viewed by some people as a sign of militancy, or of “the angry black woman.”
It is clear from this history that Black hair has always been political; however, the relationship between Black hair and the Politics of Respectability is arguably the most political aspect of Black hair. The Politics of Respectability refers to marginalized groups policing themselves and other members of their demographic on basis of morality, propriety, and aesthetics in order to show their social values as being continuous and compatible with dominant culture rather than challenging the majority for its failure to accept differences. Black intellectuals such as W.E.B. DuBois believed that by adhering to respectability politics, whites would recognize our worth as humans and begin to give us equal treatment. The issue with this is the dismissal of the inherent racism and internalized-oppression within this way of thinking. One group of people should not have to alter their behavior and appearance to coincide with that of another in order to given human rights. Black hair ties into this because Black hair is completely different than white hair; therefore, it is not respectable. One cannot wear natural Black hair and simultaneously “blend in” with whites. Black hair was, and sometimes still is, said to be “unkempt” and “unprofessional.” Black people have historically and in recent times been kept from or fired from jobs for wearing their natural hair and children have been suspended from school for wearing natural hairstyles. This sends a clear message: Only straight hair is "acceptable" and "presentable" in professional and academic environments. Black hair has also been viewed as a sign a bad hygiene. This sends a clear message as well: If one’s hair is not straight, it is dirty. These classifications that have historically been associated with Black hair were created as a way to police Black identity. By teaching Black people that their hair is not good enough, the white oppressor has used Black hair and respectability politics as politics tools to perpetuate self-hatred within the Black community.
Originally, Black hair was merely an indictor of African ancestry; therefore, it was also an indicator of Black identity. The concept of Black identity in itself is political because of the historical and contemporary context in which Black people existed and exist in American society. Blackness, and therefore Black hair, has long been associated with inferiority because the notion of “Black inferiority” was used as a justification for slavery and its aftermath (Black codes, Jim Crow, etc.). During slavery, Black hair was politicized. Many field slaves were made to cover their hair while house slaves were made to wear wigs made from white people’s hair. After slavery, Blacks had societal pressure to straighten their hair in order to assimilate into white America.
Later, during the Natural Hair Movement of the 60s and 70s, natural hair was politicized again because of the entanglement of the movement with the Black Power Movement. People wore afros for political reasons: as a statement of acceptance of Black identity and rejection of assimilation into white America. In addition to this, when Black liberation leaders such as Angela Davis—activist, scholar, author, educator--wore natural hair, it became associated with repression and militancy in the eyes of whites that wanted to dismantle the Panthers and combat the Black Power Movement. Since then, natural hair and afros are still viewed by some people as a sign of militancy, or of “the angry black woman.”
It is clear from this history that Black hair has always been political; however, the relationship between Black hair and the Politics of Respectability is arguably the most political aspect of Black hair. The Politics of Respectability refers to marginalized groups policing themselves and other members of their demographic on basis of morality, propriety, and aesthetics in order to show their social values as being continuous and compatible with dominant culture rather than challenging the majority for its failure to accept differences. Black intellectuals such as W.E.B. DuBois believed that by adhering to respectability politics, whites would recognize our worth as humans and begin to give us equal treatment. The issue with this is the dismissal of the inherent racism and internalized-oppression within this way of thinking. One group of people should not have to alter their behavior and appearance to coincide with that of another in order to given human rights. Black hair ties into this because Black hair is completely different than white hair; therefore, it is not respectable. One cannot wear natural Black hair and simultaneously “blend in” with whites. Black hair was, and sometimes still is, said to be “unkempt” and “unprofessional.” Black people have historically and in recent times been kept from or fired from jobs for wearing their natural hair and children have been suspended from school for wearing natural hairstyles. This sends a clear message: Only straight hair is "acceptable" and "presentable" in professional and academic environments. Black hair has also been viewed as a sign a bad hygiene. This sends a clear message as well: If one’s hair is not straight, it is dirty. These classifications that have historically been associated with Black hair were created as a way to police Black identity. By teaching Black people that their hair is not good enough, the white oppressor has used Black hair and respectability politics as politics tools to perpetuate self-hatred within the Black community.